Kollokium Watch Review: Neubrutalist Horology Redefines Independent Watchmaking
How three industry veterans created a projects-based platform that challenges everything about traditional watch design with 468 hand-applied luminous pins.
Steven Thompson
Independent Watchmaker · 10 Years Experience
Reviewed by Indie Watches
Editorially reviewed for accuracy
⚡ Key Takeaways
- ✓Each Projekt can be completely different — No obligation to visual continuity
- ✓Collaborations possible — Can work with anyone without brand guidelines
- ✓Experimental approach — No "brand DNA" to protect or maintain
- ✓No long-term commitments — "This is where it all begins – and maybe ends"
- ✓Pure creative exploration — Design without commercial compromises
📑 Table of Contents
In an industry obsessed with heritage, tradition, and historical references, a genuinely novel watch becomes a near-impossible achievement. Most brands claiming innovation deliver vintage reissues or minor dial variations. True design breakthroughs—watches that look unlike anything before—appear perhaps once or twice per decade.
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Kollokium Projekt 01 is one of those rare exceptions.
Founded in 2020 by three watch industry veterans—Manuel Emch (CEO of Louis Erard, formerly of Jaquet Droz and Romain Jerome), Barth Nussbaumer (award-winning watch designer), and Amr Sindi (watch collector and influencer known as The Horophile)—Kollokium isn't actually a brand at all.
It's a projects-based platform for creating watches with no inherited framework, no predefined aesthetic, and no obligation to establish "brand DNA."
The Projekt 01, their first release, appeared in late 2023 as a "Friends & Family" edition limited to 99 pieces. The watch sold out immediately among industry insiders. Subsequent variants released to the public (limited to 199–499 pieces each) have consistently sold out within hours, often minutes.
The secondary market tells the story: watches retailing for CHF 2,666–3,666 (approximately $2,900–4,000) command $6,000+ prices when they appear for resale.
What makes Kollokium Projekt 01 so compelling? The answer lies in genuinely unprecedented design execution. Rather than a traditional dial with printed markers, the Projekt 01 features 468–488 hand-applied cylindrical pins in varying heights and diameters, each individually filled with Super-LumiNova, creating a three-dimensional topographical landscape that reads time through texture, depth, and light rather than conventional hands and markers.
The case construction is equally radical: die-cast steel rather than CNC-machined, creating a raw, industrial texture impossible to replicate through traditional manufacturing.
Kollokium calls this "neubrutalist horology"—inspired by post-war brutalism, Kraftwerk synth-pop, and Philip K. Dick retro-futurism. "If traditional watchmaking is a classical opera," they say, "kollokium is an indie, gritty sci-fi noir."
This comprehensive review examines what Kollokium actually is (and isn't), explores the Projekt 01's radical design philosophy, assesses build quality and wearability, analyzes value at retail and secondary market pricing, and determines who should buy these genuinely novel timepieces.
What Is Kollokium? #
Not a Brand—A Projects-Based Platform #
Kollokium deliberately avoids "brand" designation. The founders' perspective: Calling Kollokium a brand imposes constraints—established aesthetic codes, consistent brand language, historical continuity, market positioning. By framing it as a "projects-based platform," the trio maintains complete creative freedom.
What this means in practice:
- Each Projekt can be completely different — No obligation to visual continuity
- Collaborations possible — Can work with anyone without brand guidelines
- Experimental approach — No "brand DNA" to protect or maintain
- No long-term commitments — "This is where it all begins – and maybe ends"
- Pure creative exploration — Design without commercial compromises
The Three Founders and Their Expertise #
Kollokium represents the perfect founder combination:
- Manuel Emch — Current CEO of Louis Erard and Raketa, previously led Jaquet Droz and Romain Jerome. Brings industry connections, manufacturing knowledge, and business acumen.
- Barth Nussbaumer — Award-winning watch designer with 20+ years experience. Notable works include Petermann Bedat 1967 dead-beat seconds and 2941 split-seconds chronograph. Previously worked with TAG Heuer and others.
- Amr Sindi (The Horophile) — Seasoned watch collector with previous collaborations with Armand Billard, Ophion, and Raketa. Brings collector insights and community engagement.
All three have full-time jobs—Kollokium remains a side passion project, allowing creative freedom without commercial pressure to constantly release products.
"Neubrutalist Horology" Philosophy #
Kollokium defines their approach through conceptual foundations:
- Post-war brutalism — Raw materials, bold forms, industrial honesty
- Kraftwerk synth-pop — Electronic, experimental, ahead of its time
- Philip K. Dick retro-futurism — Gritty sci-fi, dystopian aesthetics
- Lo-fi design — Simplicity and rawness with unexpected sophistication
Design principles include industrial honesty, tactile experience, contrast and depth, form and function balance, and the quality of being familiar yet unfamiliar—recognizably a watch, but unlike any watch.
Projekt 01: The Design Breakdown #
The Revolutionary Dial #
Rather than a traditional flat dial with printed markers, the Projekt 01 dial consists of 468–488 hand-applied cylindrical steel pins in six different sizes and varying heights. Each pin's hollowed tip is individually filled by hand with Super-LumiNova.
How it works:
- Pins arranged in organic, topographical patterns
- Hour markers created through groupings of taller/wider pins
- Three-dimensional landscape creates time-reading through depth and texture
- Viewed from above: pixelated, abstract surface with discernible hour positions
- Viewed from side (through box crystal): undulating topography of varying heights
- In darkness: lume-filled tips create glowing sculptural dial
Variant-specific executions:
- Variant A (F&F&F) — 99 pieces, 468 pins, orange lume emission. Sold out.
- Variant B — 199 pieces, 468 pins, blue lume, white seconds hand. CHF 2,666.66. Sold out.
- Variant D — 299 pieces, 468 pins, toxic green lume, green seconds hand. CHF 2,999.99. Sold out.
- Variant F — 399 pieces, 488 pins, proprietary Lichtblock violet lume technology. CHF 3,666.66. Sold out.
- Variant G — 499 pieces, 468 pins, blue PVD treatment on pins, blue Super-LumiNova, light blue base dial (most legible variant). CHF 2,999.
Each dial requires hand-applying hundreds of individual pins, then hand-filling each tiny hollow tip with luminescent paint. This process is extraordinarily labor-intensive—equivalent, according to Kollokium, to the lume amount used across 500 traditional dials condensed into one Projekt 01.
Surprisingly functional for legibility. While unconventional, the hour markers remain discernible, and time-reading accuracy within 5–10 minutes is easily achievable. At night, the true magic emerges—hundreds of glowing lume dots create spectacular three-dimensional light sculpture genuinely unlike anything in watchmaking.
The Die-Cast Steel Case #
Most watch cases are CNC-machined or stamped from steel. Kollokium uses die-casting—injecting molten steel into cast forms, a process rarely used in watchmaking because it's supposedly unsuitable for precision parts.
Why die-casting?
- Desired aesthetic — Raw, industrial, heavy-duty tool appearance
- Specific texture — Neither matte nor frosted, somewhere in between
- Tactile quality — Unexpectedly soft to touch despite rough appearance
- Brutalist honesty — Material shown without polishing or finishing
- Manufacturing rebellion — "They said it couldn't (and shouldn't) be done"
The result is uniform, organic texture impossible to replicate through machining. No sharp angles, no polished surfaces, no traditional finishing—just die-cast steel in industrial glory.
Case construction:
- Two-part case — barrel-shaped base with cylindrical mid-case
- Size: 40mm diameter, 11–11.95mm height (varies by variant)
- Material: 316L stainless steel
- Lugs: Inspired by cruciform screwdrivers, rising to cradle watch before moving out and down to hug wrist
- Crown: "Valve-shaped" design, distinctive but not particularly functional for operation
- Caseback: Solid steel secured by screws
Water resistance: Variants A & B: 30m (3 ATM). Variant D onward: 50m (5 ATM)—improved based on customer feedback.
The Cylindrical Box Sapphire Crystal #
Rather than standard flat or domed sapphire, Projekt 01 uses a cylindrical "box" crystal that frames the dial and allows light from all sides. This enables side viewing of dial topography, enhanced light penetration, visual depth, and a unique profile. Anti-reflective coating ensures clarity despite the complex crystal shape.
The Movement: La Joux-Perret G101 #
Kollokium's philosophy: "We're not pretending to be something we're not. Kollokium may be a lot of things, but a watchmaker isn't one of them."
Movement specifications:
- Caliber: La Joux-Perret G101 automatic
- Origin: Swiss-made
- Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
- Jewels: 26
- Power reserve: 68 hours
- Configuration: No-date variant
The LJP G101 has gained attention as a Swiss-made alternative to Sellita SW200 and ETA 2824. Reliable, serviceable, with excellent power reserve allowing Friday-to-Monday wear without winding. Budget goes toward innovative design elements rather than movement development—smart allocation given Kollokium's design-led philosophy.
The Strap: Elastic Textile Innovation #
A purpose-designed strap completes the package:
- Single-piece construction — No traditional buckle
- Hook fastening system — Quick, secure closure
- Stitched loops — Easy size adjustment on the go
- Elastic textile material — Just right elasticity for secure wear without tightness
- Breathability — Quick-drying, comfortable for extended wear
- Color coordination — Matches dial variant
Build Quality and Execution #
Manufacturing Excellence #
Dial construction: 468–488 individually hand-applied pins demonstrate extraordinary labor commitment. Each pin hand-filled with lume shows meticulous attention. Quality far exceeds typical microbrand dial work.
Case finishing: Die-cast texture consistent and well-executed. Two-part construction fits together precisely. No sharp edges or manufacturing defects. Intentionally raw appearance doesn't mean poor execution.
Crystal installation: Box sapphire crystal fitted perfectly with anti-reflective coating applied well. No distortion or imperfections.
Movement installation: G101 running accurately with proper regulation from factory.
Overall assembly: Hand-assembly in Switzerland ensures quality control. Limited production (99–499 pieces per variant) allows attention to each watch impossible at higher volumes.
Practical Wearability #
Size and proportions: 40mm diameter works for most wrists (6.5–8 inches comfortable). Upper case 38.5mm feels closer to 38–39mm wearing experience. 11–11.95mm height is reasonable for an automatic watch. Lug design is unusual but ergonomic, hugging the wrist well.
Legibility in practice: Daytime requires slight adjustment to unconventional time-reading but is functional within minutes. Nighttime is spectacular—the lume display is actually easier to read in darkness than daylight. Accuracy to within 5–10 minutes is easily achievable, sufficient for daily life.
This is what enthusiasts call a "fourth watch"—beyond the core trio (dress, casual, sport), a watch that provides a unique experience but doesn't fit neatly into standard categories.
Value Proposition and Pricing #
What You're Paying For #
Retail pricing:
- Variants A & B: CHF 2,666.66 (~$2,900–3,100 USD)
- Variant D: CHF 2,999.99 (~$3,200–3,500 USD)
- Variant G: CHF 2,999 (~$3,200–3,500 USD)
- Variant F: CHF 3,666.66 (~$4,000 USD) — most expensive due to Lichtblock technology and 488 pins
All prices exclude VAT.
What justifies the price:
- Dial complexity — Hundreds of hand-applied pins, individually filled with lume. Equivalent work to 500 traditional dials.
- Manufacturing innovation — Die-casting watch cases requires development investment and specialized tooling.
- Box sapphire crystal — Complex cylindrical shape more expensive than standard crystals.
- Swiss movement — La Joux-Perret G101 with 68-hour power reserve.
- Limited production — 99–499 pieces per variant creates genuine scarcity.
- Design excellence — Award-winning designer with industry veterans.
- Swiss assembly — Hand-assembled in Switzerland.
GPHG Recognition #
2024 GPHG nomination: Projekt 01 nominated in Challenge Category (watches under CHF 3,500) at the prestigious Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. Independent jury of watch industry experts recognized Projekt 01's innovation and execution as worthy of consideration alongside established brands.
Who Should Buy Kollokium Projekt 01 #
Buy Projekt 01 If: #
- ✅ You value genuinely innovative design and want watches that look unlike anything else
- ✅ You understand and accept unconventional wearability as a "fourth watch"
- ✅ You're willing to commit to limited releases and can monitor release schedules
- ✅ You appreciate neubrutalist/industrial aesthetics, brutalist architecture, and sci-fi/retro-futurism
- ✅ You can secure at retail pricing (CHF 2,666–3,666)
DON'T Buy Projekt 01 If: #
- ❌ You need traditional legibility — precision time-reading or professional contexts requiring quick glances
- ❌ You want conservative, understated watches — these are deliberately attention-grabbing
- ❌ You're considering secondary market prices — $6,000–7,000 represents poor value; wait for retail
- ❌ You prioritize water resistance — 30–50m insufficient for serious water activities
- ❌ You want established brand prestige — Kollokium is unknown outside enthusiast circles
The Variants: Which to Choose #
All variants share core architecture: same 40mm die-cast case, same La Joux-Perret G101 movement, same box sapphire crystal, same overall design philosophy. They differ in dial color, lume emission, seconds hand treatment, and production numbers.
- Variant A (F&F&F) — Most exclusive (99 pieces, friends & family only). Orange lume. Nearly impossible to acquire.
- Variant B — First public release (199 pieces). Blue lume, classic execution. Sold out.
- Variant D — Toxic green lume (most vibrant). Improved 50m water resistance. 299 pieces.
- Variant F — Most expensive (CHF 3,666). Proprietary Lichtblock violet lume. Most pins (488). Most complex execution. 399 pieces.
- Variant G — Most legible (light blue base). Two hand configurations (G1 and G2). 499 pieces. Most accessible aesthetically.
Strategy: Don't chase secondary market prices. Wait for new variants, purchase at retail, enjoy wearing. These are design pieces, not investments.
The Future: Projekt 02 and Beyond #
Projekt 02 is confirmed in development with a completely different case design and dial approach, maintaining the same neubrutalist philosophy. No timeline has been announced. Unlike traditional brands maintaining design consistency, Kollokium can explore entirely new directions without brand identity concerns.
How to Actually Buy Kollokium #
Visit kollokium.com for release announcements, variant specifications, exact release times, and direct purchases. Releases sell out within hours, often minutes—you must be ready exactly at release time.
Select authorized retailers carry Kollokium including Chronopassion (Paris), The Limited Edition (UK), and Minutes+Hours at various shows.
Secondary market is not recommended. Sold-out variants command $6,000–7,000+, approximately double retail. Better watches are available at inflated prices. Wait for the next variant or skip entirely.
IndieWatches.store features other innovative independent brands offering distinctive designs without artificial scarcity through its curated marketplace with vetted brands and fair pricing.
The Verdict: Genuinely Novel Design at Accessible Pricing #
Kollokium Projekt 01 achieves something extraordinarily rare—genuinely unprecedented watch design that doesn't price out enthusiasts.
The design achievement is undeniable: 468–488 hand-applied luminous pins creating a three-dimensional dial, die-cast steel case with raw industrial aesthetic, box sapphire crystal enabling lateral viewing, and neubrutalist philosophy executed authentically.
The quality execution is real: labor-intensive dial construction, Swiss La Joux-Perret movement with 68-hour power reserve, hand-assembly in Switzerland, and complex manufacturing processes properly executed.
The value proposition at retail is reasonable: CHF 2,666–3,666 ($2,900–4,000) is fair for the complexity and innovation, with GPHG nomination validating industry recognition.
For collectors seeking genuinely innovative design, unprecedented dial construction, neubrutalist/industrial aesthetics, and conversation-starting wrist presence, Kollokium Projekt 01 delivers something unavailable anywhere else.
The challenges are significant: unconventional legibility, limited water resistance (30–50m), polarizing design, difficult acquisition, and secondary market inflation.
But for those who appreciate design as primary value, understand Projekt 01 as a "fourth watch" rather than daily wearer, can secure at retail pricing, and value the experience of wearing genuinely novel horology, Projekt 01 represents a remarkable achievement.
Kollokium proves that three passionate individuals with industry expertise, design excellence, and collector perspective can create watches that transcend convention and challenge established luxury brands on innovation and execution.
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